6 routes – Art in the Jordaan

Everyone can follow these routes on their own, in their own time and at their own pace. The studio’s may be closed. If you want to visit the studio / met the artist you have to make an appointment (contact via the websites of the artists)

• Route 1. ETCHING & PORTRAIT
• Route 2. CERAMICS
• Route 3. VISUAL HISTORY
• Route 4. PAINTING and PHOTOGRAPHY
• Route 5. DRAWING
• Route 6. PICTURE IN MOTION

Below are the route descriptions with explanations:
+ Descriptions are written by Henk Reitsma for the Open Ateliers Jordaan 2018.
+ Also penned by him: The general history of the Jordaan
+ The studios are recognizable by the red, white and blue flags.
+ Each route takes approximately one hour (including studio visits).

ROUTE 1. ETCHES & PORTRAIT

Here you see the route in Google Maps

Starting point:

Jeroen Dercksen | Within Dommersstraat 17 – “When I manage to concentrate well, I feel timeless and happy. That is why I do it. “

  • The walk starts in the Haarlemmerbuurt, just outside the Jordaan, a neighbourhood that is from the same period.
  • The Dommersstraat is named after a landowner in this neighbourhood during its construction.
  • It was the line turner (rope manufacturer) IJsbrand Dommer Jansz.
  • You will reach the beginning of the Palmgracht on the 19th century iron lift. Here you can clearly see the different construction phases in the Jordaan. No. 5 (De Palmboom 1745) is an example of “high-quality renovation”,which particularly came into vogue in the nineties.
  • The large residential block next to it, is an example of new construction by the municipality of Amsterdam in the thirties.
  • In the back is a glimpse of new construction from the eighties in modern style. The Palmgracht canal has been filled in the late nineteenth century.
  • You will pass the beginning of the Willemstraat. This street is the former canal ‘Goudsbloemsgracht’, the first canal that was filled to make a road. The buildings were demolished and replaced by philanthropic new buildings between 1860-1880, without the municipality being involved. Private organizations from the Amsterdam elite tried to elevate the Jordaan residents out of poverty and poor living conditions. The Willemstraat was an example of the fondness the people of the Jordaan had for the Orange prince (then William III). He always passed the neighbourhood when he was in the city.
  • Café Het Papeneiland is located on the corner of Brouwers- en Prinsengracht. One of the few examples of original 17th century buildings (although restored).
  • You are now almost on the Noordermarkt. Go to the church entrance and take a look at the statue “Unity the strongest chain”, to commemorate the Jordanian Riot of 1934. This was an example of Jordanian emotion that was not orange-minded. It was a popular uproar because of a reduction in the unemployment benefit. The government of Hendrikus Colijn wanted to show the people that he had no mercy. There were 5 deaths.
  • In 1941, the February strike began here, when resistance to deployment of workers to Germany was strengthened by outrage at the first violent raids in houses of Jewish Amsterdammers at Jonas Daniel Meijerplein.

Diane Lekkerkerker | Egelantiersgracht 484 – “The similarity between emotion and behaviour fascinates me.”

  • In the small street next to cafe Het Smalle at the beginning of the Egelantiersgracht (a copy of this cafe in Osaka is in a kind of life-size Madurodam) you will find the Claes Claesz Hofje annex Anslo’s hofje.
  • The seventeenth century complex, a form of charity for the elderly people, was saved from demolition by a number of opponents of the demolition plans that the municipality had in the sixties. It was the beginning of the resistance that would lead to a defeat for the ideas of the Urban Development Department. • If you want to know what the Jordaan would have looked like if these plans had continued, you should take a look at Kattenburg (not included in this route, near the Scheepvaartmuseum, opposite the naval buildings )

Geert Jan Kuypers Nieuwe Leliestraat 55 A – “In my portraits I try to highlight what lies behind our mask; the shadow side.

Rosian Dubbeld | Nieuwe Leliestraat 169 F – “I want to tempt people to step into a fictional world.”

ROUTE 2. CERAMICS

Here you see the route in Google Maps

Starting point:

Rita van der Vegt Vinkenstraat 123 hs – “I am fascinated by the development of my work and the game with residual forms.”

  • This walk starts in the district:” Haarlemmerbuurt”, on the border of North Jordaan, and is just as old. The street is called Vinkenstraat named after a tavern/ hostel’ called the “Reed Finch” (de Rietvink) in 1566 still located outside the city. It was here that the first non Catholic sermon took place. The city council in 1566, was strictly Catholic and sent out their official. However, the citizens who guarded the Haarlemmerpoort, which was still at the  Singelcanal , did not let him pass through the city gate. He then had to walk further to another city gate and did not arrive in time, to arrest the illegal protestants. There used to be a retirement home that was called the Rietvink (Reed Finch) at the end of the Vinkenstraat near the Haarlemmerplein. It is now a residential care centre for the elderly .
  • You will pass through the Dommersstraat. Dommer was a landowner in this neighbourhood when he was drawn to the city in 1613. He was a rope manufacturer who had his company on the Lijnbaansgracht.
  • On the Palmgracht,this canal filled up in 1891, you pass two courtyards, the Raepen and the Van Bossche hofje. These two court yards are accessible, but inhabited. So act as if you ,yourself were a resident, silence please.
  • In the triangle north of the Palmgracht, near the trianglular street are some old distilleries, Van Wees and the Stork. (There is, of course, a pub).
  • On your way to the South you will cross a number of filled-in canals. The former Goudsbloem canal, now Willemstraat, and the Lindengracht, which is still called Lindengracht (Linden-canal). On the Lindengracht there is a complex of houses belonging to the construction company Jordaan at number 206-234, which was completed in 1896, on private initiative.
  • Ninety-two neat houses instead of the 131 slums that stood there. Despite all good intentions, the rent was too high for the residents of the demolished slums, a problem that is persistent in social housing. The architect was J.E. van der Pek, who would later build a whole neighbourhood for workers, in the North of Amsterdam .(De Van der Pekbuurt).
  • Now we a pass another filled-in canal formerly the Anjeliersgracht, now called: Westerstraat. Also the middle part of this former canal is like the Lindengracht,  used as a market, but mostly as a parking lot.

Pau Voûte | Palmgracht 74 A – “I love the craft. How a cool work emerges from the gunk. “

  • On the Prinsengracht you have to be in a boathouse, but just look at the other side. There is not only the pink canal house of Sjoerd Soeters, but also the Van Brienen courtyard, built by the rich and Roman Amsterdam, sir Van Brienen, who was under the rule of Napoleon ‘maire’ of the city. The first Catholic, who became mayor of Amsterdam from 1587.

Janneke Tangelder | Boat “de Witte Roos” – Prinsengracht 72 K – “The starting point for my paintings and ceramic portraits is always my immediate environment.”

 

ROUTE 3. VISUAL IN HISTORY

Here you can find the route in Google Maps

Starting point: Sunny Neeter | Casa Luna, Leliegracht 14 – “Decline, past and recycling placed in a historical perspective.”

Neely Sheep Casa Luna, Leliegracht 14 – “Life, big and small, is my playing field.”

Roy Jongeling | Marnixstraat 150 – “There are so many ideas that keep coming up.”

Paul Dijkman Marnixstraat 150 – “Our lives are incomprehensible, full of energy and wonderful opportunities.”

Gonny Paul Marnixstraat 150 – “Painting as a metaphor for life.”

ROUTE 4. PAINTING AND PHOTOGRAPHY

Here you can find the route in Google Maps

  • This tour is in the “southern” Jordaan, the part beyond the Rozengracht, the only street with a tram line in the Jordaan, which divides the district into two halves, as it were, since it was filled in 1896.
  • You start at Hazenstraat 35, according to the facing brick “the plump hare”. Facing bricks were used as an address sign instead of numbers. You will notice that in this part of the Jordaan the names of streets and canals are animal names,with fur or fleece  and not names of plants and flowers. Many leather workers lived In this part of the Jordaan. They  were not allowed to practice their malodorous profession  in the canals.

Starting point:

Peter (Spear) van der Meer Hazenstraat 35 – “I use my work to reach and connect people; strive for solidarity. “

  • On the way to the second workshop you cross the Lauriergracht. When you walk to the right, you will arrive at no 37, simply indicated with the sign ‘Last & Co, brokers in coffee’. This is the fictitious address of Batavus Droogstoppel (BD), which presents itself to the reader at the beginning of Multatuli’s famous book “Max Havelaar”. His business card (Eilieve, sticks it by you), is printed in the book. Incidentally, Multatuli had used a fictitious address. Lauriersgracht 37, which did not exist, in the 19th century. This was to show that not just the poor lived in the Jordaan, but also upstanding citizens such as BD.
  • On the corner of Hazenstraat and Laurierstraat is a famous bar, Jordaan café, Rooie Nelis.
  • Laurierstraat 140 is part of a block of newly constructed buildings from the time that the money for urban renewal did not flow richly. Architects preferred to spend money on the living comfort of the residents rather than on the façade of buildings. On your way to the Rozenstraat you will pass the home for the elderly, ‘De Laurierhof’. When many people left the Jordaan in the years 1950-1970, the elderly who did not want to move to the West of Amsterdam or to Purmerend, Zaandam,or Almere,  stayed in this home. Here you will find mainly real Jordaanese.

Surina Baag Laurierstraat 140 B – “I want to reveal the hidden, dark side of man, of myself.”

  • At the Rozengracht you can see the Mosque, which used to be the Roman Catholic church “de Zaaijer” from 1928 to 1971. Between 1890-1899, the building “Constantia”, was a  meeting point of anarchists and socialists. The “true people friends” so called by  Dennis Bos, often had tumultuous meetings here. When Constantia went bankrupt, the Jesuits bought it and established a church. After a temporary functioning as a carpet hall, it has become a (Turkish) mosque.

Thérèse van Eldert | Rozenstraat 90 C – “Painting is a permanent voyage of discovery in the realm of imagination.”

  • Rozengracht 105 is part of the distillery of Lucas Bols, one of the many industries that once stood in the Jordaan. Part of the complex is built by the architect H.P. Berlage, who then still built in traditional style.
  • The Bols Tavern, across the street, is an example of an antique-looking new-building, as can be seen in different streets in the Jordaan. When  restoring a building, it is always a question of which era and which style to choose for the restoration. In the past the owners modernized their houses constantly.

Paula Muijtjens | Rozengracht 105 D1 – “My source of inspiration is nature in all its facets.”

ROUTE 5. DRAWING

Here you can find the route in Google Maps

  • You start this walk outside the actual Jordaan on the Haarlemmerdijk, the old sea dike of 1200, that protected Holland/ Amsterdam from the water. Here as well as in the Jordaan, later residents protested against the plans of the municipality to demolish the district.
  • In fact, the harbour with its houses and firms here, had to be flattened in order to build a motorway to Haarlem. The seafront was at the street ‘ Houttuinen’ and there was even a real red light district for the sailors and craftsmen. The large-scale demolition was abandoned and the inner courtyard, which had been demolished in the meantime, was rebuilt with houses, according to the 1980s housing models.

Starting point:

Birgitta Vereecke | Haarlemmerdijk 34 E – “My strength is in my spontaneous handwriting.”

  • Via the Binnen Oranjestraat you enter the Jordaan by the bridge over the Brouwersgracht. Going straight into the Willemstraat. This street used to be the dirtiest canal in Amsterdam, it was the first canal to be filled in around 1860, and the old buildings were largely replaced by new buildings by the associations of citizens who took up the plight of the poor.
  • One of the complexes is that of “Constantia”, steadfastness, an association that wanted to support the rights of workers who had worked for one employer for at least twelve years. In the Willemstraat people were very orange-minded (pro King ); in other streets they were more communist, socialist and anarchist.

Anja Sijben Willemsstraat 127 d – “As an artist I am interested in ideas that people develop about each other.”

Ruys | Lijnbaansgracht 26 E – “I work with brushes and paint, reed pen and inks, etching needle and acid bath because I cannot do otherwise.”

  • After your visit to the Lijnbaansgracht, you will pass the Goudsbloemstraat, past the butcher Louwman, a famous address for ox sausage.
  • You will also travel south along the Karthuizersplantsoen, where nowadays a playground is located. This used to be part of the monastery of the Carthusians, an order of monks whose members lived in separate houses and had a duty of silence. The monastery dates from the 1300s and was still seen to be far from the city of Amsterdam. The city border was at the Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal. In the course of the eighty-year war, the monastery was destroyed, and after the expansion of 1613, when the city expanded, the monastery and its grounds became the property of the city. They provided the remaining monks with a benefit. There was a foundry of artillery and bells, and a residential complex for poor widows, which was controlled by the “house occupants” who had their seat on the Prinsengracht and who had a lot of business in the Jordaan. The rest of the complex became an arms cemetery. The widows court is now a residential complex, but can be visited, provided you respect the privacy of the residents; so silence.
  • At the Westerstraat, try to imagine what it would have looked  like when it was still a canal, like the Prinsengracht! The idea of digging a canal here again was suggested some years ago, but it was not executed. Shopkeepers, retailers, and  some of the inhabitants, were against the plan.

Jan Paul King Westerstraat 72 – “I create heirlooms as a counter-reaction to the disposable culture.”

ROUTE 6. IMAGE IN MOTION

Starting point: Tuinstraat 234

This ‘route’ largely takes place at one location: Tuinstraat 237, where four artists present their work:

Marc Rietdijk – “I am photographing the future: what would the Netherlands look like in 2020 – 2040?”

Wietze Vos – “I make miraculous non-real objects that make the light shine through.”

Siegrid Siderius – “I am seeking form in space. I shape clay and clay into my play. “

Desiree Wijgman – “My work is very diverse: figurative, abstract, portraits, but always sensitive and sometimes with a touch of humour.”

Within two minutes walking distance you can find the Cristina d’ Amsterdam workshop on Tuinstraat 20:

From the studio turn right – continue to the Tuinstraat and then the first road on the right Derde Egelantiersdwarsstraat.

Cristinadeamsterdam – “I paint because I cannot write.”